Vitamin C: Does It Really Transform Your Skin Quality?

Author: Lina Abdulla

If you've been using Vitamin C in your skincare routine for years like I have, you already know its benefits firsthand. But how did Vitamin C even get crowned as a ‘must-have’ in our skincare routines? From hyperpigmentation and UV damage to elasticity and collagen production, Vitamin C has become the ultimate multitasker. Let's dive into why this ingredient is so beloved and how it actually works!

Why Vitamin C? 

Did you know your skin naturally contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important functions like collagen production and protecting the skin from UV damage. Thus, vitamin C is often added to skin care products. 

The use of topical vitamin C is associated with improved skin elasticity and texture. However, it’s not clear how effective these products are as opposed to simply optimising getting enough vitamin C through your diet. This blog post aims to deliver a more well rounded and scientifically backed understanding of topical Vitamin C use for our readers. [1] 

How does vitamin C work?

Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, serves as the major aqueous phase antioxidant, think of an antioxidant as a molecule that neutralises harmful free radicals that can damage our skin. Vitamin C also helps recycle Vitamin E, which serves to protect the proteins in our skin from damage. Since we can’t produce Vitamin C ourselves; we must ingest it, however our body has limits on how much Vitamin C it can absorb from dietary sources [2]. This invites the question of whether the topical use of Vitamin C is the answer?

Thanks to Duke-patented technology,  L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) can now be stabilised and delivered directly into the skin topically. Providing much higher concentrations than available from food alone [3]. 

What Do Clinical Studies Say About Vitamin C?

Hyperpigmentation:

This is for those dealing with dark spots or melasma. Studies show that Vitamin C derivatives can reduce melanin production by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which controls melanin production. In other words, Vitamin C can help lighten pigmentation and even out your skin tone [1].

One study even used Vitamin C after CO2 laser resurfacing and found that it reduced redness. So, if you’re struggling with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or scars, this might be worth considering [4].

UV Damage:

Vitamin C doesn’t just help repair sun damage, it can actually prevent it! It’s been shown to influence how our genes express antioxidant enzymes and repair damaged DNA, offering a shield against UV-induced inflammation and cell death [5]. As a result it is recommended by many dermatologists and skin therapists to use Vitamin C alongside SPF in your skincare routine. 

Dry Skin Conditions:

Cell culture studies have shown that the addition of Vitamin C enhances the production of barrier lipids which help to maintain the natural moisturising component of the skin and induces our skin cells (keratinocytes) to differentiate into their final form. 

Based on these findings, scientists have suggested that Vitamin C may help form the skin's outer layer which helps the skin prevent water loss; combatting dryness. [6] So, if you’re fighting flakiness, Vitamin C could help your skin stay hydrated and supple.

Collagen and Elasticity: 

Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that has been proven to increase collagen synthesis. Collagen is the protein that keeps our skin plump and bouncy, but it naturally decreases as we age. In human skin fibroblasts in culture, L-ascorbic acid stimulates collagen synthesis without affecting other protein synthesis. Without enough vitamin C, the body can't produce or maintain collagen effectively. So, as an antioxidant, Vitamin C protects existing collagen from being broken down by UV light and pollution [1].

Conclusion: 

During the course of a normal lifetime, the skin is exposed to a number of challenges that can affect structure, function and appearance. However, vitamin C plays a pivotal role in maintaining healthy skin, from its essential function in collagen synthesis to its antioxidant properties that protect against UV damage and environmental stressors. 

While dietary intake of vitamin C is crucial for overall health, these studies prove topical application to be a promising solution for skin-specific concerns. Stabilised forms of topical vitamin C have demonstrated effectiveness in improving hyperpigmentation, protecting against UV damage, preventing dryness, and boosting collagen production. However, further research is needed to fully understand its long-term efficacy and to compare topical treatments with optimal dietary intake.

 Overall, the integration of vitamin C into skincare routines, especially in combination with SPF, is a scientifically supported approach to promoting skin health and preventing damage.

Disclaimer:

The information provided in this blog post is for educational purposes only and is not intended as a substitute for professional skincare advice. While Vitamin C has been shown to have many potential benefits, results can vary based on individual skin types and conditions. Always consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional before starting any new skincare regimen, especially if you have sensitive skin, underlying skin conditions, or are using other active ingredients. Patch testing is recommended when trying new products.

Sources: 

[1] Puller, J et al. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 9(8), p.866. [Online]. Available at: https://doi.org/10.3390/nu9080866 [Accessed 4 September 2024].

[2] Pinnel, S et al. (1998). Topical Vitamin C in Skin Care. Aesthetic Surgery Journal. 18(6), p.468–470. [Online]. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/S1090-820X(98)70085-8 [Accessed 4 September 2024].

[3] Darr D Pinnell SR. Stable ascorbic acid compositions. US patent 5 140 043, 1992, Duke University Medical Center, assignee

[4] Alster TS, West TB. (1998). Effect of topical vitamin C on postoperative carbon dioxide laser resurfacing erythema. Dermatoligic Surgery. 24(3), p.331-334. [Online]. Available at: doi: 10.1111/j.1524-4725.1998.tb04163.x. [Accessed 4 September 2024].

[5] Duarte, T.L et al. (2009). Gene expression profiling reveals new protective roles for vitamin C in human skin cells. Free Radic Biol Med. 46(1), p.78–87 [Online]. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2008.09.028 [Accessed 4 September 2024].

[6] Boyce, S et al. (2002) Vitamin C Regulates Keratinocyte Viability, Epidermal Barrier, and Basement Membrane In Vitro, and Reduces Wound Contraction After Grafting of Cultured Skin Substitutes.

Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 118(4), p.565-572 [Online]. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1523-1747.2002.01717.x.