The Science of Red Light Therapy: Does It Really Fight Signs of Aging?
Red light therapy is a groundbreaking skincare treatment that has captured the attention of beauty enthusiasts for its ability to apparently rejuvenate the skin and combat the signs of aging. But what is red light therapy, and does it scientifically really work?
How Does Red Light Therapy Work?
Originally developed for medical purposes, such as promoting wound healing and reducing pain, red light therapy has now found a significant place in skincare with increasing popularity. It uses low-wavelength red light (typically in the range of 400-1100 nm) to penetrate the skin. The light triggers a natural process in your cells called photobiomodulation (PBM) (1).
Here’s how it works:
The light is absorbed by parts of your cells called mitochondria. The mitochondria contain a natural "light receptor" called cytochrome C oxidase.
The light helps the mitochondria produce more energy (in the form of ATP), which fuels cell repair, renewal, and other healthy functions.
This extra energy helps reduce inflammation, stimulate collagen production, and promote better blood flow. It can also speed up the repair of damaged skin cells.
PBM stands out as a non-invasive, and convenient treatment with an excellent safety record. However, there are no standardised guidelines for PBM treatments across different skin conditions and skin types, despite its potential (4). This leaves room for further research and development.
How Does Red Light Therapy Benefit the Skin?
Clinical studies have revealed promising results, showcasing RLT’s potential to tackle wrinkles, improve skin firmness, and promote overall rejuvenation.
A study conducted using the Skin Light Dior × Lucibel mask provided compelling evidence of RLT’s effectiveness. Volunteers used the mask twice a week for 12-minute sessions over three months (1). The results were impressive:
Crow's feet wrinkle
15.6% decrease after 28 days
34.7% decrease after 56 days
38.3% decrease after 84 days
Skin firmness
Skin firmness progressively improved with mask use, as shown by a reduction in the R0 value:
13.6% decrease after 28 days
19.7% decrease after 56 days
23.6% decrease after 84 days
Skin roughness
6.8% decrease after 28 days
18.2% decrease after 56 days
23.8% decrease after 84 days
Porphyrin Levels in Pores
Porphyrins are compounds produced by bacteria like Cutibacterium acnes, commonly associated with acne-prone or oily skin. After 84 days of mask use, the number of porphyrin-containing pores dropped by 23.2%, showcasing its potential for reducing blemish-causing bacteria.
The Cellular Science:
In another study, human skin cells and tissues were treated daily with red (640 nm) and near-infrared (830 nm) LED lights at 0.5 mW/cm² for 10 minutes (2). The results were as follows:
Increased Gene Expression: Enhanced activity of collagen (COL1A1, COL3A1), elastin (ELN), and LOXL1 genes.
Protein Production: Significant boosts in procollagen type I and elastin protein synthesis.
Stronger Fibers: Formation and crosslinking of type III collagen and elastic fibers improved.
Energy Boost: ATP levels surged, energising skin cells for repair and renewal.
Is Red Light Therapy Effective for Wrinkles and Aging Skin?
Clinical research supports the effectiveness of RLT in treating wrinkles, fine lines, and signs of photodamage. Repeated sessions of RLT have been shown to improve skin texture and elasticity by stimulating collagen production (3). The treatment’s ability to promote skin rejuvenation without the need for invasive procedures makes it a popular choice for those seeking a non-ablative, painless option for anti-aging.
Disclaimer:
At Revouza, we’re all about empowering you with knowledge to make informed decisions. This article is for informational purposes only and isn’t a replacement for diagnosis or treatment. Red Light Therapy isn’t suitable for everyone - Always check in with your healthcare provider before diving into new skincare treatments or therapies!
Sources:
(1) Couturaud V, Le Fur M, Pelletier M, Granotier F. Reverse skin aging signs by red light photobiomodulation. Skin Res Technol. 2023 Jul;29(7):e13391. doi: 10.1111/srt.13391. PMID: 37522497; PMCID: PMC10311288. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37522497/
(2) Li WH, Seo I, Kim B, Fassih A, Southall MD, Parsa R. Low-level red plus near infrared lights combination induces expressions of collagen and elastin in human skin in vitro. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Jun;43(3):311-320. doi: 10.1111/ics.12698. Epub 2021 May 25. PMID: 33594706. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33594706/
(3) Hernández-Bule ML, Naharro-Rodríguez J, Bacci S, Fernández-Guarino M. Unlocking the Power of Light on the Skin: A Comprehensive Review on Photobiomodulation. Int J Mol Sci. 2024 Apr 19;25(8):4483. doi: 10.3390/ijms25084483. PMID: 38674067; PMCID: PMC11049838. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11049838/
